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What is SURFING ?
Well, this is what surfing's all about according to surfer girl Daize Shayne!
HANGING WITH DAIZE SHAYNE
By: Daize Shayne
This morning I awoke early to the sun flickering through the shades. Hawaii has had gale-force
winds and rain to go with it for the past two weeks. But as soon as I saw the palm trees still
and the sun out, I knew the waves were going to be good.
As I ran down the shoreline to Rockies, I was thinking of how much I love these islands. The
water was inviting and blue. The sun was shining and I was in nothing more than a swimsuit. I
even found two gorgeous sunrise shells, which are usually impossiable to find. It was beautiful.
But when I stood up after finding the shells and looked out beyond the beach, that's when it hit
me - Rocky "Hollywood" Point.
I should have known that with the good weather every photographer and surfer would be at my
favorite break-but who can blame them, everyone needs to make a living. The ocean, which just a
moment ago was so inviting, was now packed with at least sixty surfers. The sand was linded with
surf photographers, waiting to get that "winning photo." I looked back at the sand and tried to
feel those same loving thoughts for the islands I had just felt three seconds earlier.
I grabbed my board and headed into the line-up. The session was definitely not one to brag about.
I was practically bumping elbows with people. Guys were scrambling for waves as if there was a
twelve-foot shark chasing them. It took me awhile to admit it, but I did realize that magazines
have deadlines and surfers have images to sustain.
After a few waves I let the current take me down the beach. A couple of breaks over, the crowd
thinned and again it felt like home. A turtle then popped its head up and offered me a short
underwater ride on its back. The feeling I had when I started my day, with the morning light,
the stillness of the palms, and the sunrise shells had returned.
It was then that I realized what surfing is all about to me. It is the freedom you feel with
yourself, when it's just you, your board, and the ocean; when there is no one else around to
distract you escape; when all of the problems of today and yesterday disappear from your thoughts.
It's not the picture you get in the magazine or the cutback someone saw you do. It's that
feeling of your mind and body being in complete harmony with each other.
SURFING IS FREEDOM
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